The expedition begins in Kathmandu, Nepal after which the team will fly (weather permitting) to Lukla in the beautiful and hospitable Khumbu Region of Nepal and the start of the usual Everest Base Camp Trek. Our Sherpa staff will already be hard at work checking equipment, packing loads and ensuring everything is in place for the adventure that lies ahead.
The trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp is one of the classic treks of the world. It follows the standard Everest Base camp trek route up the Khumbu Valley, through Namche Bazzar and detours to Ama Dablam base camp just outside of Pangboche.
After arrival at Ama Dablam base camp, we will acclimatize for a couple of days while the guides and Sherpa team begin to fix the route and prepare camps on the SW Ridge. This will allow for optimal adjustment to the new altitudes and environment and permit the team to progress very slowly and safely. Now, the climb begins and everyone becomes really excited for the challenge ahead.
We will use 2 camps above the 4600M base camp:
- Camp One – On snow, or rocks 5650M
- Camp Two- On snow and rocks, 6000M
After an appropriate resting period, we will venture towards camp one with no loads on our backs save for some water, food and camera for the days climb. The climb although relatively easy, will be a challenge for everyone on the team. Our Ama Dablam acclimatization has only just begun and we will all be feeling the effects of the thin air up to over 5600M.
The Sherpa team will carry all of the ropes, hardware, group sleeping and cooking equipment for the high camps the leaders and members will aim to spend at least two nights at camp one and one night at camp two. Pushing any higher at this point would only serve to weaken everyone and risk complications associated with extreme altitudes. Therefore, we will slowly descend all the way back to base camp or Pagboche for an extended period of rest. During which time, our Sherpa team will ensure the climbing route is in place and also prepare and stock all of the high camps for our summit push.
A NOTE ON CAMP 3 AND CAMP 2.9 ON AMA DABLAM
The SW Ridge of Ama Dablam has been slowly changing over the years. Historically, climbers would sleep at camp 3 below the “Dablam” at 6350M and make a bid for the summit from there; returning to either camp 3 or camp 2 to sleep. We at Ganesh Adventures feel that it is no longer safe to sleep at camp 3 on Ama Dablam due to nearly constant ice fall and avalanche danger. In 2007, commercial expeditions started consistently using a slightly lower and safer camp that became known as camp 2.9, only 20 minutes climbing from the traditional camp 3 and literally chopped into the side of the mushroom ridge. Although stunningly situated, this camp is prone to high winds and very cold temperatures. Not to mention overcrowding and hygiene issues from other climbing teams. Therefore, we choose to climb directly from camp 2 at 6000M.
The choice to make a summit bid from camp 2 is not only a safer and healthier option but also serves to save the time and energy required to move the team up to another high camp. This methodology allows up another chance at the summit of conditions on the route do not permit us to top out on the first try. Regardless, an 856M summit day is hardly extreme for any Himalayan giant such as Ama Dablam.
Once a favourable weather window is predicted, the team will advance with the Sherpa team at a rate of one camp per day. If all goes well, we will be standing on the summit of Mt Ama Dablam three days after leaving base camp. If the weather and/or conditions on the mountain fail to co-operate, we will have ample opportunity to make another bid for the summit.
