Out from the Baltoro and infact in Islamabad already. I took a trip up to camp2 and conditions had really gone south with the heat the few days after the summit attempt, hard ice and unconsolidated snow with a bit of rockfall to spice it all up. The conditions on the Basque route reminded me [...]
Author Archives: szymiec
Post summit attempt wrap up
August 08, 2011 – Update from base campWe made it down to base camp late on the 6th – around 8pm, directlyfrom the shoulder. Another trip to the shoulder, many for me now. Icannot say I did not see it coming. We really should have tried forthe summit on the 4th, both Kinga and Christian’s [...]
Summit push starts tonight!!!!!
I have worked hard this season,and am very proud of the fact that Ihave opened the route from the bottom to the start of the snowfieldbelow camp 3. The 400 meters of trailbreaking from the bottom of thesnowfield to C3 was done by 3 others. I again fixed the last twohundred meters of rope to [...]
K2 2011: Snowing in Base camp
July 02 2011A super fast trip to base camp (5 days from Askoli) has led to not much activity. Strong winds, clouds and snow has meant a lot of reading and not much else. We did wake up this morning at 4 am to try and go up to camp 1 or 2, but returned [...]
K2 2011: Trek
Off to Askoli! 22/6 Jeep to Askoli23/6 Trek to Jola24/6 Trek to Paiju25/6 Trek to Urdukus26/6 Trek to Goro 227/6 Trek to K2 Base CampI love this trek, we will be in touch along the way!
2011 K2: KKH and Skardu
The drive up the Karakoram Highway was really good when it was done. In all honesty it is not as bad as I make it out to be, just a bit hot and bumpy. We stayed in Besham with the guys heading into the Charakusa Valley, and had a super dinner of fried chicken, chips, [...]
K2 2011: Monsoon
So the monsoon officially arrived last night (yes there is such a thing) and honestly it was monsoonal. amazing storm, planes were diverted to Lahore and lightning was everywhere and the roads in Islamabad were almost instantly flooded. It was amazing. What is not amazing about this news is that flights to Skardu have not [...]
The best training for an 8000M peak?
Roger’s Pass, British Columbia, Canada Although i am far from an expert in the area of 8000M climbing, I do feel i have a certain insight into what is needed to not only survive but succeed on a climb up the 14 really big mountains of the world. This year i will be leading and [...]
Everest North East Ridge Route 3d video
Check out this really cool, and flashy video outlining the approach and ascent of the NE Ridge route on Mount Everest. After arrival at Everest base camp, we will acclimatize for a couple of days while the Sherpa team establishes our advanced base camp(ABC). This will allow for optimal adjustment to the new altitudes and [...]
High Altitude Medicine
HIGH ALTITUDE MEDICINE In 1991 some doctors interested in mountain medicine saw a young, fit climber die on the Mera La. The doctor with him knew little about the risks of severe altitude mountain sickness. The tragedy inspired the doctors to study altitude illness and share this information with others. Since the early 1990s members [...]