In 1991 some doctors interested in mountain medicine saw a young, fit climber die on the Mera La. The doctor with him knew little about the risks of severe altitude mountain sickness. The tragedy inspired the doctors to study altitude illness and share this information with others.

Since the early 1990s members of Medical Expeditions have, along with others, been busy studying mountain medicine. They have done their best to improve the knowledge of doctors responsible for, or advising, people travelling at altitude.

This section looks at the effects that travelling at altitude can have on your body and aims to help you to understand why you may not feel well or get ill. It suggests ways to avoid illness and suggests what you should do if you get an altitude related illness. Our own experiences and real cases have been used as examples. The deaths on the Mera La were caused by going to high altitude, but both could have been avoided had simple rules been followed.

The following is a brief look at the fascinating study of High Altitude Medicine. This information is only meant as a rough guide to help you prepare for and have a safe, fun amd exciting trip in the Himalayas.

Roger’s Pass, British Columbia, Canada

Although i am far from an expert in the area of 8000M climbing, I do feel i have a certain insight into what is needed to not only survive but succeed on a climb up the 14 really big mountains of the world. This year i will be leading and managing expeditions to Mt Everest, Broad Peak and K2. It will be my first time to Everest, 2nd to K2 and 3rd to Broad Peak. I have also been on Gasherbrum 2, and Cho Oyu two times. This might seem like a lot to some but to me, i am still a rookie in the 8000M realm. Training is still key.

For those who know me well, they know i am not the most serious of athletes. I have not set foot inside a gym in years and have no plans of ever doing so. Sure, i could throw on my Everest boots and walk all day on a tread mill, lift dumb bells and pull up on plastic holds bolted onto a wall until the cows come home. I just don’t feel that any of these activities will make me a stronger climber at altitude and improve my chances of success in the high mountains. Plus, after a day in the gym, i just want to go drink my sorrows away. It makes no sense.

To be strong in the mountains one needs to spend time in the mountains. There is no better, more enjoyable way of getting strong than ski touring and actual mountaineering. The motions of skinning up hill mimic very closely the movements used while mountaineering. The added weight under foot as well as the large packs needed for ski mountaineering build strength and really serve to offer a full body workout that is not only functional but wicked fun as well.

I do not have a routine or a schedule, i just try to get out at least 5 days a week. The other two days i spend resting, relaxing and looking at all of the great photos from my previous week of ‘training’. There is also another activity that leaves me feeling relaxed, fulfilled and strong. I practice Ashtanga yoga.

I could write a whole book on my experiences with yoga and what it has done for me over the years. One of the best friends i have ever had introduced me to yoga a number of years ago and although i have never really taken it too seriously, i do return to my practice from time to time and it always serves me well. Ashtanga yoga is flow or vinyasa based series that not only builds flexibility but also strength. I find no better way of ending a day than a nice 2 hour session of Ashtanga. It calms the mind, cleanses the body and mind and puts me in exactly the place i want to be. I am not one for Bikram or Hot yoga; too serious and contrived. A western take on a 3000 year old discipline. Its like climbing on a wall in a gym.

My routine will definitely not work for everyone. I want to have fun, get strong and save my knees for descending the big hills. Ski mountaineering and Yoga. Thats the ticket. The way i see it, even if i don’t make a summit, at least i didn’t waste my days indoors running on a treadmill. Get out and do it!