Gear & Equipment
The False Polish route on Aconcagua is considered a non technical climb. That said, crampons are required for the upper sections in what's called "The Canteletta". An ice axe in not necessary for this route but i would recommend a high quality pair of trekking poles. Do not bring aluminum crampons to Aconcagua. It is highly recommended to bring an old sturdy pair of steel crampons. Expect them to get really worn down on the rocks.
What is the best brand of sleeping bag for Aconcagua?
In my opinion and experience, Marmot sleeping bags are constructed with the most care and useful features than others i have used. They are not only durable but moreover, their construction & materials make them perfect for extended use at hugh altitudes. I own a Marmot Helium -18C and love it!
What is the best ice axe for an Ama Dablam expedition?
I recommend a sturdy short ice axe for Ama Dablam. The Black Diamond Rage Adze is a perfect choice. You will also want a good leash or teather for your ice tool.
What is the best boot for Ama Dablam?
The La Sportiva Spantik & the Scarpa Phantom 6000 are the best boots for an Ama Dablam expedition. One can also get away with using an approach shoe such as the La Sportiva B5 up to camp 2.
Training for your Trek or Expedition
You're kidding right?
Gym climbing and a 5.8 rock pitch at 5975M with 675M of air beneath you, while climbing in mountain boots and a 15KG pack on your back is like comparing apples and speed boats. Don't worry though, the Yellow Tower pitch is fixed and most everyone jumars up it. It goes free at about 5.9 though. Don't forget to breathe and your previous technical climbing skills will definitely help you out.
I am a marathon runner and tri-athlete. Will this level of fitness help me at high altitudes?
No. High altitude mountaineering is a completely different sport (physically & mentally) than running or triathlons. Being in good shape will of course give you an advantage over someone who is not fit but in the end, the climber with the most experience up high always does the best.
Get to know your body & mind. What's really illness and what's just part of the game. High altitude mountaineering is the hardest sport in the world.
What is the best training for an Aconcagua expedition?
In my opinion, carrying a heavy pack (~20kg) up and down a big hill is the best training for Aconcagua. You might also carry water to the top, drink it and dump the rest then descend. This will save those precious knees from the abuse of a descent with a heavy pack.
Nutrition & Diet at Altitude
So what's the deal with freeze dried meals? Do you eat them on expeditions?
Well, the 'deal' is that freeze dried meals are a disaster! In my experience, about 95% if people can not eat them above 6000M and despite their fancy recipes, are not engineered for high altitudes. In fact, one company's meal took 2 hours to rehydrate at 7000M, based on their cooking directions. I refuse to even carry a freeze dried meal, instead opting for "boil in a bag" feasts, or MREs. Although they are considerable heavier, they use less water, take less time to prepare, cost less, taste way way better and come in 100s of different configurations. Relatively delicious. Also, always bring good sausage and cheese from home.
What sort of diet is best for high-altitude climbing?
Studies show that our bodies can process fats and carbohydrates normally up to 5000 meters, so any loss below that elevation can be attributed to less than adequate intake. Above 5000 meters, however, weight loss seems to be unavoidable, due to several factors: 1) loss of appetite and increased nausea from the effects of altitude sickness; 2) change in overall metabolism; and 3) the body's inability to digest food.*
The average-sized male climber can expect to burn upwards of 500-800 calories per hour at higher altitudes (the higher numbers are for difficult carry days) so plan on consuming substantially more than you eat back home. A good ratio seems to be 60-70% carbohydrates, 15-20% from fat and 15-20% from protein. Complex carbohydrates provide the ongoing fuel needed to replenish glycogen stores, while protein helps prevent excess deterioration of lean muscle mass. Beware the very high-fat diet at altitude: reliance on foods such as typical mountaineers' classics like Snickers bars, cheese, jerky, nuts, and so forth can result in chronic muscular fatigue, since a high-fat diet lacks the necessary level of readily-available carbohydrates; furthermore, high-fat diets require more oxygen during metabolism for processing, thus slowing down acclimatization.*
The simplest answer to this is: what you'll eat, consistently, and a lot of it. Make sure you test-run your food ahead of time on training climbs (on Rainier and other similar training climbs that take you above 12.500') so you learn what works best for you. By all means, take foods and beverages you enjoy or you won't want to eat them. If you know that your water treatment makes drinking unpleasant, take flavored drink mixes like Tang, cocoa or Gatorade to help mask the taste and add valuable carbohydrates. Also consider the weight of all the food (especially if you're going to be carrying most of it yourself!) -- dehydrated foods that are light weight but calorically dense are highly desirable. Potato buds that you can mix with dried turkey or other meat and hot water seems to be a concoction that goes down pretty easily for most people at high altitude. But if you absolutely hate the taste of any of your fare at sea level, leave it behind.
* Resource: Burnik and others, in Ch. 6, Some Anthropometric Changes on Extreme High Altitudes, Science of Climbing and Mountaineering CD-ROM, available through Human Kinetics. Research done on Everest, North Base Camp, 1997. (http://www.bodyresults.com/e3highaltnutrition.asp)